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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.